Upgrade from OEM

Identical to a previous wheelset, these have more to offer than most OEM wheels. Their stiffness is excellent, the star-ratchet hubs are high quality at an affordable price, and spokes are butted. Butted spokes decrease weight and increase fatigue life. This set is 28h with alloy nipples — a recipe for durability with a nod to weight. These are nice parts and I like to think they’re put together as well as a wheel can be, which is an important determiner of maintenance requirements and lifespan.

Radially lace my hubs

My rims are shot so I’m looking for new rims and spokes. My hubs are going strong so I’d like to re-use them. This time I’d like to lace the front wheel radially…

It’s a pleasure to ride nice hubs and, as this rider knows, they can survive many sets of rims. But only re-use your hubs with the same lacing pattern used before. This is for safety. Changing from a cross pattern to radial is the most dangerous case and a notorious cause of hub flange cracks.

Campagnolo rides again

Campagnolo has always made nice hubs so I enjoyed overhauling and lacing these to Archetype rims. The rear hub needed help with pitted cones and sticky pawls but now it’s as good as new. The loose ball bearings were replaced on both hubs, which should be done as part of periodic maintenance. In the same way that regularly replacing your chain extends the life of cassettes and chainrings, replacing loose ball bearings saves your cups and cones. If you have nice hubs, take care of them and they will last forever. Good hubs can last through several sets of rims.

Adjusting for tolerances

A cartridge bearing should have an interference fit with its hub bore. Some hubs hold their bearings firmly and others are too loose. At first glance a slip fit seems simpler for the DIY mechanic but a slip fit can allow slight play in the wheel. Play is no good because it’s your cue adjustment is lost or bearings are worn. Unnecessary play can damage hubs.

These hubs are a good example — out of the box I found the bearings slightly loose. In cases like this I re-install bearings with a thin layer of Loctite 641 applied to the outer races. Loctite makes a variety of industrial bearing retainer compounds but I use 641 because it’s a low viscosity formula that allows for thin applications. It’s the lowest strength sold, which means bearings can be pulled easily in the future.

Carbon rims China direct

A trend I’ve been watching is direct sales of carbon rims from China. It’s an idea with pros and cons. The main pro is price. When you buy direct you’re effectively a wholesale customer as they offer no better terms for dealers.

These rims were supplied by the rider. Weight is the focus with a Tune King 15 front hub, DT Swiss 240S rear and CX-Ray spokes. Total wheelset weight is 1470 grams (29er, 32h). Wow!

Clydesdale wheel love

Heavier riders can be hard on wheels. Clydesdale/Athena riders need to look at a few factors when choosing wheels: get a strong rim, build with more spokes, select butted spokes and use brass nipples. I sometimes hear the suggestion that straight gauge spokes are better for these applications but untrue! Spokes break from fatigue and breakage usually occurs near the elbow. A butted spoke has a thinner middle section, which is more elastic. This redirects flex from the danger zone to a less risky part of the spoke. This means better durability even though weight may be lower.

Here’s a classic example: Velocity Deep V rims in 32f/36r, Shimano 105 hubs, and butted spokes.

Killer alloy wheelset

Voilà White Industries T11 hubs, HED Belgium rims, and Sapim CX-Ray spokes. A durable wheelset built from top end components. A hair over 1500g including Veloplugs.

Daily driver wheelset

Check out these wheels: DT Swiss 350 hubs laced to H Plus Son Archetype rims. The quality of the hubs is tops — spending more money buys lower weight but not tougher stuff. The rims are very strong. This wheelset uses 28 butted spokes front and rear paired with aluminum nipples to keep weight in check.

All silver all the time

I like silver components because they look better with wear. This job used old stock Shimano hubs a rider found at a swap meet. The hubs are showing their age but look great. Less welcome is a dented dustcover on the front hub, which prevented ideal adjustment. I was able to repair the hub with a replacement part and finish the build. The rims are H Plus Son Archetypes in polished silver. These rims are a little bright but will wear to look just like the hubs. I recently compared box section polished rims but Archetypes are my jam. They’re lighter and stronger and look sweet.

But wait there’s more! This is another take on the same rim. I built this wheelset using lighter White Industries T11 hubs, fewer butted spokes and orange aluminum nipples.

Shiny rims for vintage rides

People get stuck choosing between the H Plus Son TB14 and the Pacenti PL23. Both look great on vintage-inspired bikes. The PL23 has a tubeless profile, which is the deciding factor for some riders. If you need tubeless, go PL23. Otherwise, and this is most people, go TB14.

Here are some photos so you can compare side-by-side. The PL23 polish is a little rougher but looks good. The TB14 is very bright when new but develops a terrific patina through use and cleaning.

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